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       In the spring garden, tulips are undoubted favorites. They are one of the first to bloom, filling everything around with bright colors. In order for the tulips to grow beautifully and delight the eye, they need to be cared for properly.

      Rules to be observed by tulip connoisseurs. Everything begins with the purchase of planting material. 

      Some bulbs have a medium diameter, others are striking in their huge size. Many flower growers believe that the larger the bulb, the higher the chances of success. However, this rule does not always work.

      Often in the sale you can find bulbs that have been grown for fodder. The plants are deliberately fattened so that they can reach their full potential in the first year after planting.

      After flowering, such tulips are sick for a long time. If you leave them in the flowerbed, next year they will either not bloom at all or will form small, unsightly buds.

       Burnout bulbs over time begin to disintegrate into many small bulbs, which have to grow to the right size for several more years.
Bulbs are recommended every year to dig up, separately dry, dividing by variety. Dry the planting material needs to be warm, so not all flower growers have enough strength and resources to maintain a large collection.
Each bulb should be treated before planting. Then begins the most difficult stage, when a separate place is selected for each flower, where tulips have not grown for 3-4 years.

      To ensure that pleasure does not turn into agony, you need to know a few basic rules. The main thing is not to be greedy. 

      Plant bulbs, which are not planned to dig up, should be planted at a decent distance, so that later the plants do not interfere with each other in the struggle for sun, moisture and nutrients. Tulips grow best in loose soil with good nutrition and watering. They respond well to mulching.
Biopreparations help in the fight against diseases.

       They reliably protect the garden from infection by suppressing pathogens. Treatments with “Phytosporin” provide reliable protection against fungal diseases, to which tulips are prone. Unfortunately, all preparations are powerless against viral infections. Diseased plants should be immediately dug up and burned.

      If the flowers refuse to bloom, it is a clear sign that the growing conditions are not suitable for them. When well cared for, blooming tulips have 2-3 leaves emerging from the ground at once, and then they throw out their peduncles. While other plants are slowly waking up and growing, the tulips have time to bloom. 

     Depending on the variety, the flowering date varies.
The ugliest stage of a tulip’s life is when the leaves dry out. But usually by this time, other plants have grown to a sufficient height to cover the unsightly bushes.

       This is why experts advise planting tulips next to peonies, phlox and other light-loving plants.
Immediately after the flowering of tulips, first of all, it is necessary to cut the seed boxes. This is done so that the plant does not waste energy on seed formation.

      If the bed where these flowers grew does not need to be freed, then the plants should be left in their place until all the foliage turns yellow. If it is necessary to plant some other flowers, then tulips should be dug up. 

      But immediately separate the bulbs from the leaves is not worth it, they should be stacked by color or variety, and then put in a box, and put away until the leaves dry out completely, until all the organic matter is not transferred to the bulbs. Even then, the leaves can be cut off, and the bulbs can be sent to a cool place for storage. 

      The foliage is removed when the dried-out peduncle becomes flexible and can be wrapped around your finger. Leaves are easily broken out.
And in the fall it will be possible to carry out their planting. In a low-maintenance garden, you can forget about tulips until next year.

      In tulips that have flowered, the bulb divides. Usually one plant produces 1-2 large bulbs that will bloom next year and several small bulbs. The bulbs can be dug up and dried as a whole nest together with the leaves.
If you do not dig up tulips for several years, a whole clump of intertwined bulbs can form from one bulb. It is not uncommon for tulips that have not been dug up to go deep into the ground and stop blooming in the absence of nutrition and moisture.
Bulbs are not afraid of frost.

       They lose germination only if attacked by pests or affected by diseases. Tulips are quite unpretentious plants, with which even a novice florist can cope.
Plant the bulbs near the end of September, burying them in the ground by 3 times their diameter. In this case, fertilize the soil with manure is not worth it, otherwise the risk of fungal infections will increase many times. Preference is better to give organomineral fertilizers, as well as dolomite flour and wood ash.

Varieties of tulips. Recently, there have been so many varieties that no specialist will be able to list them. In modern classification, they are divided into 15 classes: simple, early, late, terry, parrot, Rembrandt and so on. Some collectors manage to collect more than 20000 varieties.

Now tulips are no longer a surprise to anyone. Some 20-30 years ago, no one could not think that flower growers will have the opportunity to grow at once and terry, and fringed varieties. All flowers are good in their own way. 

      The main thing that the holiday of color and shape falls in the spring, when people still do not have time to recover from the scarce on the colors of winter.

           What pitfalls await those who want to grow multiflora tulips?

            Bouquet tulips form several buds on one stem at once. That is why they are so good in the composition of bouquets. Recently, such varieties have gained great popularity. Many florists take to growing widely publicized flowers, but often encounter problems.

            In the first year after planting, a stem comes out of one bulb, on which 3-6 buds can form. The number of flowers will directly depend on the quality of the planting material. The larger the bulb, the more flowers will bloom.

            Many novice flower growers plant tulips in their beds in the fall and wait for the promised results. Often they do not get sprouts at all. Plants can only come up in the second year of planting, forming at best 3 buds on the stem. 

     Multiflora tulips are very demanding to growing conditions. They often freeze in winter.
Signs of multifloral tulips are guaranteed to remain in varietal tulips only in the first year of planting. In the second year, the number of buds is noticeably reduced. Instead of 5-6 beautiful inflorescences, the florist receives 2-3 weak florets.

        To preserve breeding traits, experts advise paying special attention to bouquet tulips. They should be planted in fertile loose soil, fed at least 3 times a season and necessarily dug up after flowering. Planting material should be stored in the right conditions, and in the fall planted at optimal temperatures.
Often even experienced flower growers do not manage to create the right conditions for tulips multiflora.

      With proper care after a couple of years they lose the stated signs of color and multiflorality, turning into ordinary tulips That is why beginners should not mess with these capricious varieties, so that once again not to be disappointed in their capabilities.
      At best, from a purchased bulb of excellent quality, you will be able to grow a plant with several inflorescences on the stem in the first year after planting. In the next season, the situation may change, no matter how much effort and effort has been invested in this flower.