Today I want to argue with the statement that the older the seedlings, the worse they tolerate picking. I used to adhere to the recommendations to pick tomato seedlings as early as possible: the older they are, the worse they take root. But, in one of the seasons, delayed with this matter and my tomatoes have already unfolded two pairs of real leaves.
I began to panic, all abandoned and urgently engaged in transplanting. I was very worried that the seedlings will not take root well, will be sick for a long time, or even die: the next morning with apprehension went into the room and was extremely surprised – my “beauties” were sticking out soldiers, fluffed up and were not going to “die”.
I liked this “accidental” experiment – instead of a week of “thinking” to be or not to be, my settlers started to grow and just “enjoyed” the space in the big bags. And I then as “pampered”, looking at their emerald leaves and thick stalks – I was about to say goodbye to the seedlings and the harvest.
The advice to pick seedlings at the age of seedling leaves should not be heeded: although tomatoes are very resilient plants, but in this phase of development they still have too fragile stems and very thin roots – here they will be much more difficult to take root in a new place than older seedlings. Give them time to gain strength to painlessly survive the transplant. This usually takes 2-3 weeks after sprouting.
The best option for transplanting seedlings – the appearance of two – four true leaves, but do not hurry, let them fully open, turn into real, full-fledged leaves – then you can safely do transplanting.
Do not spare your time and containers – sow seeds rarely, it will give seedlings a good start, enough volume of soil and nutrition in the stage of sprouting each plant, there will be no competition and transplanting they will not even “notice”.
And another thing, why do I always advise to sow rarely? First, it will be convenient to pick, minimizing damage to the roots. Secondly, less contact with the tender seedling – when transplanting it is desirable not to touch with fingers neither the actual leaves, nor the stem: without wanting to, we can simply burn them – the temperature of our body for them is destructive.
It is better to gently hold the seedling by the seedling leaves, and even better to scoop it up with a spoon or fork and transfer it to a new container without touching the plant itself – and this is only possible with rare sowing.
I have already written about shortening the main root, but I will repeat it. Do not hurry to follow this advice. Yes, pinching helps to form a large number of roots, but mostly surface roots and very strongly reduces the drought resistance of plants. If you plan to grow tomatoes in the open ground, live in an arid region and it is not possible to water tomatoes regularly – it is better not to do it, you risk not having a crop.
In nature everything is balanced – a powerful central root will get water from the depths, where it is always wet, and lateral surface roots – nutrients from the upper fertile layer. And the plants are good and will have to water less often.
Who does not want to bother with transplanting, practicing to sow seeds 2-3 pieces at once in large containers, then removing the weak. I tried it this way, I did not like it. Surplus planting material recently not so much, if you do not collect your own seeds. Yes, and a large volume of soil requires more water, and seedlings at first do not need much – the soil sours, hence the rot and “black leg”.
If you decide to use new methods of cultivation, do not experiment on all plants at once – try it out on a few specimens: if you like it, you will continue to use it, and if not, you will not lose anything. For details on how I transplant seedlings, seethe followingarticle.
