Cultivation of seedlings is a necessary and important period in the life of plants. The advantages of this method are much greater, because our main task is to grow a healthy and high-quality plant capable of giving a bountiful harvest. The question is controversial – this procedure has so many supporters, so many opponents.

Most gardeners believe that picking makes plants stronger and healthier, but opponents think that plants without our help will grow perfectly well. But, as they say: how many dachniki, so many opinions. Our imagination is running wild.

The appearance of the seedlings of the first pair of true leaves signals us that it is time to pick seedlings. Containers gardeners use different, who is used to what and how convenient. The only thing I want to say is that if you grow tall tomatoes, the volume of containers for seedlings should be at least 0.5 liters. In smaller containers, the seedlings will be cramped and will have to be transplanted.

It is often advised to pinch the main root by one-third of its length during cotyling to stimulate the growth of lateral roots. Do not be in a hurry to follow this advice! Pinching helps the formation of a large number of additional roots, but mostly superficial, and in addition very strongly reduces drought tolerance.

After this procedure, the main root stops growing and, when transplanted into the open ground, is not able to grow deep into the soil and take moisture from there during periods of extreme heat. In such cases, regular watering is necessary. Therefore, if droughts are frequent in your area and it is not possible to water tomatoes regularly, you run the risk of not being able to harvest them.

Repotting is stressful for plants and there is always a risk that they will not take root in a new place. I use a gentler and gentler method of transplanting – transplanting, which eliminates root damage. To do this, I transplant the seedling together with a clump of soil.

Now about the transplanting itself. I plant tomatoes in milk bags cut in half. I fill more than half of the soil – leaving room for filling the seedlings with soil when they grow up. I pour warm water (I use snow water). In the middle I make a hollow on the full length of my index finger and bury the seedling up to the seedling leaves at a slight angle.

Important: I fill from the middle to the edges, not the other way around, so that there are no voids around the stem. Then compact and water once again.

After picking the seedlings I place them on a table near the window, so that the sunlight does not hit the tender leaves. The seedling takes root for about 5-6 days, so do not be frightened if it “does not move from the place”. At this time, the plants build up new roots, and after that the stem begins to grow and new leaves appear. After a week I put all the seedlings on the windowsills and take care as usual.

Water not often, as the soil dries out. If in doubt, you can check the moisture content of the soil with an ordinary toothpick – put it down to the depth of the soil and look: if wet – do not water, respectively, if dry – watering is necessary.

As the tomatoes grow, I gradually replenish the soil, which stimulates the development of additional roots. The first feeding is carried out two weeks after picking.
You can read about fertilizing in the following article
The desire to work on the land is a lifelong disease. And with age it develops even stronger. May all of us, amateur gardeners, have a long and long life and strong and strong health!